As I promised, here is the second part of the t-shirt tutorial. There are a number of ways to accomplish the next step. You can add sashing with or without cornerstones. You can make the sashing wide enough to accommodate cornerstones from smaller emblems from t-shirts as on the quilt shown here. Most of these were from chest patches, etc.
You can also do patchwork around every t-shirt, for a very interesting effect. This allows you to use a variety of different sized t-shirts sections and a variety of fabrics. It is also rather time consuming and requires alot of thought!
You can frame each block using a variety of different colors and prints. Or you can do this using just 2 or 3 different fabrics.
Or a variation of this is the rag quilt. The construction process for this one is a little different than the others and is what I am going to show you.
This process seems to work best with flannels, especially woven flannels because they seem to fray up the best when they are clipped and washed.
First you need to frame each t-shirt block. Since you have numbered each block in a previous step, you can go through and figure out what color each number should be. If you are using just two colors this will be easier because the odd numbered blocks will be one color and the even will be the other. If you are using more colors you will need to spend a little more time with this part. Another thing to consider is the order in which you will be adding these frames. I like to add the 2 strips on the sides first and then on the top and bottom of the block on the odd numbered blocks. And on the even number blocks, I like to add the top and bottoms strips first and the sides second. That way when I peice the blocks together the placement is different on every other one and it looks more appealing. Make sense?
The frame can be any size but needs to be wide enough to accomodate a 1/2" seam around the outside (rag) edge. I usually cut it 2-1/2" to 3-1/2" depending on the finished quilt size that I am aiming for.
Next I cut batting 1" smaller than the block. I recommend flat, firm batting that doesn't shrink much. I like Quilter's Dream Poly Select.
This batting will need to layered between the block and the flannel backing fabric. The layers will be quilted together to keep the batting from shifting and to give the quilt some body. I put a larger piece of backing on my longarm quilting machine and put several blocks on top to quilt them. If you are going to do the quilting on your regular sewing machine, this is great project for this. Cut a backing piece slightly larger than the block, pin the layers together and quilt as desired.
Cut the backing the same size as the front.
Sew the blocks into rows using a 1/2" seam allowance.m Remember to sew with seams showing on the FRONT side of the quilt!
Sew the rows together with seams showing on the FRONT.
Once the quilt is all put together clip the seams alowance every 1/2". Be careful not to clip so deep that you clip into seam. Sorry, I guess I didn't get a picture of this step. My best advice I can give on this step is make sure you use a sharp scissors with a comfortable handle and take breaks. Your hand will thank you!
Machine wash and dry your quilt to get that frayed "rag" look. I usually wash on the gentle cycle with little or no soap. Use a Shout color catcher-better safe than sorry! It will attract any stray color and helps keep the brights bright. Tumble dry on low and check the lint trap OFTEN- the clipping causes lots of stray threads and lint to accumulate! I usually don't dry the quilt completely. When it is still slightly damp, I lay it out on the floor or on a bed to finish drying. That keeps it from shrinking and I feel it saves wear on the fabric.
As you can see in the final two pictures, you get a patchwork effect on the back along with the rag look on the front.
I hope this 2 part tutorial has been helpful!
Tracy
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